Confinement, I hear you say? No I have not regressed to using Jane Austinesque language to tell you I am with child! It’s the French word for ‘lockdown’.
The advent of Covid has brought many changes to our lives, unfortunately most of them negative and in some cases tragic.
The ‘pause’ button though has given many of us the chance to reflect on the important things in life. To enjoy the ‘moment’, appreciate our natural environment with the seemingly more boisterous birdsong and prolific flora, to discover or rediscover what makes us happy.
Our March trip to La Belle France was cancelled and we were not able to return until the beginning of July. I had regular online chats with my French neighbour, Hélène, to keep up to date with how lockdown was playing out in France…
Apart from keeping busy with shopping for relatives, volunteering in the village to help out vulnerable residents and spending a bit more time in the garden, I really needed an outlet to take me away from the incessant stream of depressing news on both sides of the channel.
So I started sketching , joined a couple of online art groups and I started to rediscover my ‘artistic’ side.
Over the years I have dabbled in photography, oils, acrylics and water colours. But throughout lockdown I have discovered the immense joy of drawing everyday objects or immersing myself in drawing Provençal scenes.
I hope you like them!
My AgaBlue doorLife’s a bowl of cherries!La Mairie at La MotteA French road tripComfy cornerGarden roomLes Lauriers
A soirée in the vines with André, friends and woodfired pizzas
André busy making pizza
André…
On my morning walks through the Provençal countryside with my neighbours, Hélène and Jill, I have met many new friends. One in particular, André, is a real character. Every morning , he arrives at his cabanon ( a small stone building in the vines that used to provide lunch time respite to grape pickers from the sun), in his old French car with his dog Pablo. He is married and lives in our lovely village of Lorgues with his wife, but his cabanon is the equivalent of that long held British masculine sanctuary, the garden shed! A place where he whiles most of his days away…when he’s not playing boules!
The awkward request…
I love taking photographs, mainly landscapes and nature. André has such an interesting face, that just exudes character and personality that I needed a way to try and capture it with my lens. So I mentioned it to Hélène, who, before I could explain that I didn’t want to offend him by asking, asked him outright with me by her side, mumbling in my best French ‘how I enjoy taking photographs of interesting people’ as a sort of excuse!
Two days later André wandered down from his cabanon, through the vines to meet us on our walk . ‘Mesdames’ he announced in his gravelly, 40 gitanes a day voice, ‘my wife, Danielle and I have decided that in honour of you taking my photograph we would like to invite you and your husbands to come and enjoy one of my woodfired pizzas at the cabanon’. It turns out that André is of Italian decent! And so the date was set.
The big day…
The day arrived and neither Héléne, Jill or I really knew what to expect. I had offered to bring a Raspberry Pavolova for dessert, I started to wonder whether I needed to take dishes, cutlery and napkins, would there be electricity, would we even be sitting down to eat?
We needn’t have worried. As we made our way through the vines, along a freshly mown path, laden with wine and the pavlova , André, his lovely wife Daniel and Pablo his faithful dog, came to greet us.
André greeting us on arrival
As we turned the corner to face the cabanon, we were astounded, I can only describe the scene as bucolically romantic.
The setting…
In front of the old stone cabanon, under the shade of a vine covered wrought iron pergola, was a long tressle table that had been laid with a pure white cloth, silver cutlery. All along the centre of the table was a beautiful trail of wild flowers that Danielle had carefully collected earlier from amongst the vines.
Wild flower gathered from amongst the vines.Hand picked flowers from amongst the vines
We were made to feel so welcome, introductions were made and we were served aperitifs in the most dainty antique glassware.
Danielle serving aperitifs
The photo shoot
Then the pressure was on… André suddenly asked ‘ where would you like me to pose?’ As an amateur I know that getting the best shot is when the subject is not aware of you taking their photograph…but I didn’t want to disappoint him as he seemed so proud to have been asked.
I managed to take some of him posing, his dog and his old French car but I just knew that I had to capture him off guard for the best shot!
André
André’s bagnole
Whilst snapping away, I realised that in preparation for our arrival, André had spent the last few days tidying up. I spotted an assortment of paraphernalia that had been carefully arranged to one side…. with the beautiful Provençal light, I can honestly say, that a magazine/ photo shoot stylist could not have staged such a lovely collection of random objects.
Random items in a Provençcal garden
The pizza oven…
André was also very excited to show us his pizza oven and took us to the back of the cabanon, where he explained that it had taken 7 men to get the full size oven in place. Despite the exceptionally high temperatures that we had been experiencing (up to 40 degrees), he told us that he had lit the oven the day before to ensure that the oven would be at the correct temperature, for perfect pizzas.
André rolling out the pizza bases
The pizzas…
We were not just offered one type of pizza, Daniel took orders for whatever we wanted, she had a whole production line of goodies set up to top the pizzas…lardons, ham, mushrooms, olives, anchovies, onions, salami, we were even asked if we wanted ‘blanc’ (crème fraiche) base or tomato. She announced that her favourite was a white base with fried onions, lardons and black olives… so of course it would have been rude not to try that, along with several other favourites including ham and mushroom (La Reine)…my favourite.
The company…
Nine of us sat around the beautifully dressed table, Hélène, Jacky, Olivier, Danielle, André, Jill, Peter, Jez and I, drinking shell pink, ice cold rosé wine and sharing the delights of André and Danielle’s most delicious pizzas. It may have been the setting, the company, the love and effort with which the pizzas were made or a combination of all three, but we had the most magical evening and the most delicious pizza we have ever eaten!
Hélène and JillJacky, Hélène’s husband who is 87
The ‘money shots’….
As I said, I am very much an amateur photographer but the next day when going through the photos I had taken, I was exceptionally pleased with one of André, that I think captures the essence of him and one surprise one of my neighbour’s son, Olivier, which in my mind is reminiscent of a 60’s French movies star shot….what do you think?
My love affair with France and in particular with Provence, has always had me drooling over the iconic and idyllic images of lavender that you find on tourist information websites and glossy brochures, promoting the lavender fields of Provence…field upon field of perfect blue lines of lavender.
I have always imagined standing amongst the gently swaying lavender with the warm breeze carrying the beautiful aroma in the air, the gentle buzzing of bees, appreciating how wonderful nature is and how this lucky we are to have a flower that has so many uses both medicinal and being the base note of many famous scents in the perfumery business!
Don’t leave it too late!
So, having been in Provence now for nearly 3 years, I thought a trip to the lavender fields, whilst they were still in bloom, was more than overdue.
I am aware that there are many fields around the Avignon area but didn’t really want to travel for an hour and a half so I asked my French neighbour Hélène if she knew anywhere a little more local….”bien sûr!” she said “about a 45 minutes drive and you will come to the Plateau de Valensole…it’s famous for its lavender!”
Well I embarked upon some research, as a few years ago, during August, I went to the Abbaye de Senanque near Avignon… images of which, with the lavender fields in the foreground, are much used in promoting the region…. expecting to see swathes of purple blue lavender…little did I know that the flowers are harvested in mid July…and all that was left in front of the abbaye were rows of very sad looking, dry silver grey lavender plants! I wasn’t about to make that mistake again!
Apparently there is only a short window of opportunity to see the fields in all their glory and this is generally between mid June and mid July after which the crop is harvested and made into essential oil.
In search of the perfect lavender field..
So, a few days ago we set off on the route from Lorgues to Valensole that takes us up through the beautiful villages of Villecroze and Aups around the stunning turquoise waters of the Lake of Sainte Croix.
Lac de Sainte Croix
Well, nothing prepares you for the breath-taking sight of the blue lavender fields on reaching the Plateau…just absolutely stunning!
Lavender fields Valensole
Stepping out of the cool air conditioned car I was overwhelmed by the all pervading, warm aroma of lavender and the realisation that the low vibrating noise I could hear, was the sound of bees, which on closer inspection, I could see were buzzing around every single plant. In fact the fields were alive with them, each individual bee collecting nectar for the lavender honey that is widely available in the area.
As a bit of an amateur photographer, I couldn’t wait to start taking photos, I was looking for that iconic shot…you know the sort I mean..a stone farmhouse in the middle of a lavender field with the possibility of a cypress tree thrown in for good measure…all I can say is that I wasn’t disappointed!
Lavender field Valensole
Lavender fields Valensole
Lavender and sunflowers
What a beautiful contrast yellow bobbing sunflower heads and blue swaying lavender.
Lavender fields and olive groves
Farmhouse and lavender field
I found it! The iconic stone farmhouse surrounded by lavender fields!
Lavender field Valensole
Provence…inspiring creativity
Since I arrived, Provence has brought out the creative side in me…cooking, writing, photography and painting!
So although I was happy with my ‘snaps’ I wondered what my attempts at a water colour might look like…so I have been dabbling and have hugely enjoyed creating my very own memories of a very worthwhile trip to the lavender fields of Provence!
One of the joys of living in Provence is taking a morning walk in the Provençal countryside with my neighbour and enjoying the breath-taking scenery.
View of Lorgues from the vineyard
Whilst, meandering through the lanes, chattering away with Hélène and being surrounded by wonderful views and enchanting bird song, I realised it could become very easy to take much of this traditional Provençal iconic imagery, for granted.
Poppies and vines
One sure way to appreciate what’s on my doorstep is to take the camera and capture the passing seasons. So, this morning, with everywhere looking so fresh and green after the very wet spring, I decided to take my camera along and try and capture the magic of Provence.
Everywhere I looked, I could see the charm of Provence… the time faded farm buildings, the fresh green vines, planted out in rows with military precision, the stone cabanons that provide shade for the grape pickers in autumn, the view back towards Lorgues, perched on a hill with its magnificent church taking pride of place.
Provencal farmhouse and vines
It’s late May in Provence and the hedgerows and fields are currently flecked not only with a myriad of wild flowers but with the soft red ruffle of thousands of poppies, their paper thin petals, shimmying in the warm morning breeze. Every single one an example of the beauty and perfection of nature.
A poppy in Provence, the perfection of nature
The paper thin petals of the beautiful poppy just fluttered in the warm morning breeze.
A poppy in Provence
Provencal cabanon in May
There was a particular view of an old stone Provençal Mas (farmhouse), that I pass on my walk that I wanted to capture. The perfectly aged natural stone, nestled in the green fields and the subtle tinge of red from the row of fluttering poppies that leads towards the house, a scene worthy of a Monet masterpiece!
Hoping for an end to the interminably long winter in England and France…
It’s the middle of March and it’s snowing again! I thought spring was on it’s way but. despite a few false starts , spring 2018 remains illusive!! Not only have we experienced three separate periods of snow in Leicestershire this winter we have had two in Provence…yes I did say Provence. The beast from the East has been well and truly present in Europe this winter.
Shackerstone in win
Snow in Provence is very rare, the two coverings that we received in Lorgues this winter provided some wonderful photograph opportunities ..snow on olive trees, dry stone walls, wine barrels and vineyards!
A thankfully short but sweet event across the South of France.
The lovely Lily made an excellent job of trying to camouflage herself in the snow.
Meanwhile the birds have been extremely numerous and active in our Leicestershire garden. Despite the subzero temperatures, the mating and nesting season is definitely underway.
Robin in the hornbeam hedge
Goldfinch and chaffinch on the cherry tree
Finches have been particularly numerous this winter, green finches, a colourful family of over 20 goldfinches and chaffinches. We are also blessed in our garden with lots of other feathered visitors, all hopefully looking to pair and nest in our hedgerows: blue tits, great tits, robins, wrens, blackbirds, thrushes, sparrows, collared doves, wood pigeons and a gang of jackdaws. We are also privileged to receive daily visits from a group of pheasants, their arrival marked by their distinctive rawcus call.
There was a glimmer of spring in Provence during the second week in February. Promising blue skies and the warmth of the sun started to return. Sculptural iris leaves started to push through the ground, our almond tree started to blossom and the bird song was noticeably louder and more cheerful…several days were warm enough to take our lunch on the sunny terrace.
Morning walks with my neighbour, were a joy, meandering past the olive groves and pine forest. In the vineyards, the rows of black, gnarly stumps are standing like soldiers in neat lines. It never ceases to amaze me, that these stumps, so dead and sombre looking in winter will spring to life, become so green, leafy and heavy with grapes in order to provide us with our favourite pink, white and red nectar throughout the year….
During the long winter months, our home is even more of a sanctuary, particularly the welcoming warmth when we come in from outdoors, the smell of wood smoke and the dancing flames of the fire fuel our urge to hunker down. Our desire for comfort food increases and like so many of you I get an irresistable urge to cook and bake.
Even if I do say myself, this year my madeleines were a triumph. I substituted the orange zest for clementine zest…even my French neighbour was bowled over!!! What harm is a little sweet treat with a coffee in the morning…. particularly in the winter, a little extra insulation will keep out the cold…and even as I write this on 21st of March it is snowing in Provence!
It is always with a touch of melancholy that I leave the autumnal warmth of Provençal France to return to the UK, with, seemingly, the only prospect of dismal, cold, dark, dank days ahead in rural Leicestershire……not so!
Despite hanging on to the delightful memory of swimming in the warm waters of the Mediterranean in mid October…I have accepted that, I have to let go of summer and embrace the colder months and indeed all the simple pleasures that they bring.
Change is important. As much as we would like to enjoy never-ending summers, plodding around in flip flops, feeling the warm sun on our skin and eating al fresco…there is something comforting about the colder months… the cosiness of winter clothes…putting on socks for the first time in several months, boots cocooning your feet, layering up with jumpers, cardigans and scarves against the cooler weather.
And the food…
And food… the comfort of a bowl of home made soup, casseroles, warm bread, pies and crumbles…not great for the waistline but good for the soul! All to be enjoyed again now the season has arrived.
Warm, buttery tarte tatin
“What is this life if full of care, we have no time to stand and stare…”
“What is this life if full of care we have no time to stand and stare”
Rarely do we have the time to stand back and appreciate how nature changes and adapts to the seasons… on stacking the wood in the log store, one morning last week, I became increasingly aware of the sounds, smells and sights of autumn and stood a while and then grabbed my camera to record them..
Getting the logs in
There is something raw, earthy and autumnal about the aroma of freshly cut wood. The intricate patterns on the bark and the rings of growth that I noticed as I stacked the logs, made me appreciate the beauty of the wood and how nature provides for us. And as I filled the log basket, I was filled with the anticipation of a cosy night in, in front of the warm glow of a real fire.
Birds….business as usual in the garden
Whilst stacking the wood I could hear the rawcus call of a male pheasant in the field behind. I went to look for him, and there he was in all his iridescent copper coloured glory, perched on the garden fence…making himself heard!
Mr Pheasant
Not only was Mr Pheasant gracing our garden but I also noticed the garden was teaming with other birds, finches, doves, pigeons and sparrows. The goldfinches… a whole family of 24… are still flitting from the silver birch to the damson tree to the roses… and as I walked round to the front of the house I noticed Mr Robin foraging under the hornbeam hedge…all of them preparing for and embracing the colder weather.
One of a family of 24
Sweet wood smoke and fiery sunsets…what’s not to like about autumn?
Fiery autumn sunset
As the sun began to go down, the wood had been neatly stacked and the garden tidied, the chilly air was filled with the sweet aroma of wood smoke from a house nearby, one of the many sensory pleasures of autumn.
Across the field, beyond where the pheasant had stood earlier, the sky transformed into a mixture of deep orange, pink and purple hues, making silhouettes of the skeletal autumn trees…nature in the autumn….a real feast for the senses…and not as depressing as I thought!
Spring has to be undoubtedly, one of the most beautiful seasons in Provence. It commences early in late February with an explosion of bright yellow, fragrant mimosa and almond blossom, in the palest pink , which against the deep blue Provençal sky is just stunning.
Almond Blossom
Provence is blessed with a verdant landscape throughout the winter with its delightful melange of silvery green olive groves, pointy, pencil-like, dark green Cyprus trees and majestic bright green umbrella pines. However the blossoms and fresh greens that herald the advent of spring, make it an exceptional time to visit.
As the sun intensifies in late March, early April, the forests, hedgerows and orchards burst into life as the tightly closed buds begin to unfurl in an explosion of leaves and blossom. Fields take on a golden hue as the wild grasses develop tiny, delicate little yellow flowers.
Spring fields of gold in Provence
Gardens spring to life with a plethora of multi coloured irises, the purple ones are my favourite, lilac trees are laden with fluffy blossom heads in every imaginable shade of mauve, all punctuated with clumps of bright yellow French broom.
Even the roses in Provence are already heavily laden with buds, on the verge of opening to reveal their delicate petals to the warm spring sunshine and façades of old houses are coming to life with the first blossoming of wisteria.
Wisteria early spring Provence
One of the delights of living in France for me has to bethe kindness and generosity of my neighbours. Jacky is 84 and tends his vegetable garden, meticulously.
In the middle of this ‘patch’ is a splendid fig tree, where he can often be found, during the summer, enjoying its shade in the early evening, after watering his vegetables.
I’ve been the beneficiary of his garden toils on many occasions, ripe juicy figs, sticky, sweet fig jam, deliciousearthy but sweet, new potatoes, perfectly formed leeks and the tastiest lettuce you can imagine. His wife Hélène presented me with a bunch of lilac two days ago, freshly cut from their tree….yes spring has definitely sprung in Provence.
Despite the low temperatures and the fact that we have no gas, arriving at our French house is filling me with joy…I’m loving the new travertine brickwork tiles in the kitchen, the warmth from our log burner, the aroma of woodsmoke from the old vines being burnt in the vineyard and the sight of the almond tree just coming into blossom and the blue Provençal sky.
n Provence is very rare, the two coverings that we received in Lorgues this winter provided some wonderful photograph opportunities ..snow on olive trees, dry stone walls, wine barrels and vineyards!
Morning walks with my neighbour, were a joy, meandering past the olive groves and pine forest. In the vineyards, the rows of black, gnarly stumps are standing like soldiers in neat lines. It never ceases to amaze me, that these stumps, so dead and sombre looking in winter will spring to life, become so green, leafy and heavy with grapes in order to provide us with our favourite pink, white and red nectar throughout the year….
During the long winter months, our home is even more of a sanctuary, particularly the welcoming warmth when we come in from outdoors, the smell of wood smoke and the dancing flames of the fire fuel our urge to hunker down. Our desire for comfort food increases and like so many of you I get an irresistable urge to cook and bake.
